Fakarava – South Pacific Snorkeling (Post #20)

​Fakarava is a rectangular atoll about 35 miles long by 15 miles wide.  The narrow strip of land surrounding the lagoon ranges from about 500 ft to ¼ mile across.  There are two navigable entrances, one at each end of the rectangle.  Fakarava is the second largest atoll in French Polynesia, right behind Rangiora.

The Zuiderdam entered the lagoon through the north entrance and anchored ¾ of a mile from shore.

Our final snorkeling excursion for this cruise was scheduled for Fakarava with Fakarava Excursions.  We booked the morning ½ day tour which was the only one available at the time.  Subsequently, they opened some afternoon tours, but we decided to stay with the morning tour (8:30 AM departure) even though that meant another early start for us.

Here is the tour description from their website:

Departure:  8.30 a.m. – Return:  12.30 p.m. / Boat trip:  40 min to go/60 min return

First, we will sail all along the north channel “GARUAE”.  Then we will join TEAHATEA, one of the best places of Fakarava.  It is a lagoon inside the lagoon, like a clear, warm and natural swimming pool with white sand beach around.  It’s time to use your camera!

During the return, we will have a break for advanced snorkeling on coral rocks inside the lagoon.

Fresh water, fruits juice, chilled coconut water with a straw, coconut cake, cookies included.  You will also learn how to husk, open, grate and extract coco milk, and to prepare traditional raw fish.  Then, you are free to doze, sunbath, swim or play the role of Robinson…

You don’t need to pay in advance.  The price is $75 or 7500 CFP.  It’s a better deal to pay in CFP if you can get your money changed in advance.

The Cruise director announced that we were cleared to go ashore at 7:30 AM and we were out the door in a few minutes to head to the BB King lounge where Tender tickets are distributed for four and five-star mariners.  The lounge was empty and there was no wait for anyone who wanted to go to shore this early.

Fakarava does not have a lot of popular excursions, like Easter Island, so the demand for tender tickets is low.  The tender ride was about 10 minutes.

Once ashore, there were only a few boats moored along the dock and it was easy to spot the one for our tour as it was displaying a sign labeled Fakarava Excursions.  We were a little early, so we had time to wander through the nearby market that sold everything from groceries to hand tools.

We boarded our boat and left the dock at 8:30 AM heading west and speeding past the Zuiderdam in a few minutes.  We weren’t sure exactly where we would be going but I was able to track our progress using Maps.me  (Available in the Apple or Google Store) and could only speculate as to our ultimate destination.

After 30 minutes we stopped near a small island and drifted for a few minutes while our guide explained that commercial fishing is restricted here along with an explanation of the various birds in the area.  The most interesting information was that the birds built their nests on the ground because there were no predators on this island.

A few minutes later we arrived at our mooring in the Green Lagoon, located in the northwest corner of the atoll’s interior.  We would wade about 50 yards ashore in the calf-deep water to the Blue Lagoon which is a notch in the larger atoll between two of the larger, narrow landmasses.

While we headed over to the Blue Lagoon to start snorkeling, our captain, and his crew of one set up a portable table with some snacks and beverages we would enjoy later.

Varying from a few feet to over 10 feet deep, the turquoise water was warm and filled with colorful fish.  There was very little current and swimming along the surface was easy.  I enjoyed watching a school of Chromis fish dart in and out of their coral home as I would get closer and move away.

After about 30 minutes in the water, we headed ashore and enjoyed some cookies, fresh fruit, and juice before heading back to the water for more snorkeling.  We only saw one reef shark, but there were plenty of other species of tropical fish.

We were here about 1 hour and 45 minutes before wading back out to the boat.  It was now 11 AM.

Heading east, we sped across the water at high speed for 30 minutes until we arrived at our deep-water snorkeling spot.  The water here was from 5 to 30 feet deep.  The current was noticeable and having fins is recommended to help you swim against the current to avoid drifting into shallow coral, tread water easier, and maneuver.  Most of the fish were a little further away and everything was more spread out.  There were a few reef sharks, not as many as we saw on Raiatea, but a couple.  We were here about 45 minutes before we climbed back into the boat and sped off back to town, arriving in 15 minutes (12:30 PM local time).

The payment was not required in advance, so everyone paid our captain at the dock before we said our goodbyes and went ashore.

There isn’t very much to do here other than go on snorkeling tours.  There is a small tourist information center with restrooms and slow Wi-Fi.  The password was printed on a piece of paper on a bulletin board next to the door.  Next to the tourist information building is a small building with a half dozen tables filled with local crafts.

There was a vendor renting bicycles and selling T-shirts near the Tender waiting area.

100 yards further north was a small café selling pastries, snacks, and soft drinks.

There are a couple of restaurants down the road heading south along with a church.  Here is a nice video from “Cruise Ship Karen” that shows more of the island than we visited during our brief time ashore.  After about 1 hour we headed back to the ship where we learned we were required to complete another muster drill that was as simple as the first time – go to your station, scan your card and watch the safety video in your cabin.  (Note:  this is required every thirty days)

Around 5 PM we enjoyed the Sail Away which was lightly attended.

Saxophone player Akos Laki, from Yugoslavia, now living in the Netherlands was the featured performer.

More about him HERE and HERE

He put on a great show with a nice style and sound playing tunes which included:  Sway, Amazing Grace, and Happy plus more.

Tomorrow will be our first sea day in a while.  Then we will have our final two ports before heading back to San Diego.  The clocks will advance by 30 minutes to line us up with the Marquesas time zone.