Day 21 – Hope Bay – Dec 10th
Today was our first day in Antarctica. It got off to an early start by cruising by a relatively small iceberg at 5 AM. They announced this opportunity the evening before at the daily Antarctica recap & briefing meeting with the expedition team. After viewing the icebergs, we would anchor in Hope Bay and tour the shoreline in the Zodiac Boats.
NOTE: While in Antarctica the Expedition Team holds a daily recap and briefing which reviews the day’s events and discusses the next day’s activities. There are no guest entertainers scheduled while we are in Antarctica.
A much larger iceberg, named A57A would be in view around 7 AM.
Icebergs!
I was up at 4:45 and headed to the Observation Bar on Deck 10 to look at the first iceberg. I didn’t wear a heavy jacket or bring gloves since I assumed that I would be able to dart outside for a few minutes to take a picture before getting too cold. The temperature was about 32 degrees F with 30 knots of wind across the deck making the wind chill 14 degrees. I quickly discovered that It was impossible for me to spend even a few minutes outside without gloves, hat and a heavy coat so I returned to our suite to grab my gloves and put on the inner jacket and outer jacket that were provided by Seabourn.
The iceberg was still a few miles away when I returned, and it took another 20 minutes before we closed to within a ½ mile. I expected the iceberg to have a jagged, irregular top, but it turned out to be pancake flat. There were about 10 people joining me on Deck 10 at this early hour. The staff set up some coffee, juice and pastries about 5 AM.
As the iceberg slipped down our starboard side, I went back to the Seabourn Square and took a few more photographs as the iceberg faded from view.
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This is the 5 AM smaller iceberg
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This the same 5 AM iceberg – now behind the ship
Pete with the iceberg from Deck 10
A57A
I returned to the Observation Bar at 7 AM to view the much larger (15 Nautical Miles long) iceberg named A57A. There was a much bigger crowd this time, but most people didn’t venture to far from the doors because of the bitter cold and biting wind. This iceberg almost covered the horizon and if you weren’t told what it was you may have mistaken it for the coastline. As we closed on the iceberg, it was hard to capture the entire iceberg in a single photograph. Using my camera’s panoramic mode was the best way to capture the iceberg in a single shot.
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The A57A iceberg is over 15 miles long
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A close up of A57A
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Judy and Pete with A57A
While most everyone was all bundled up when they headed outside on Deck 10, there was one guest who wandered out to have a look while wearing his bathrobe. He only lasted a few minutes before hurrying back inside.
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It was about 32 degrees with 30 knots of wind – wind chill about 14 degrees
After viewing the iceberg from Deck 10 we headed down to Deck 6 forward where they had hot drinks and liqueurs available, along with some pastries. The wind wasn’t quite so intense on Deck 6 and viewing the iceberg from here was a little more pleasant.
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Coffee and more early in the morning
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Judy enjoying Hot Chocolate
Another guest took advantage of the hot tub and enjoyed the view while sipping on a drink and soaking in the steaming water.
The Captain stopped the Quest along the iceberg and spun the ship on her axis so everyone would have a nice view from every vantage point. Then we continued toward Hope Bay.
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Enjoying the Hot Tub!
As we approached Hope Bay, we spotted a collection of Orange Buildings which were part of Esperanza Station, a permanent base build by Argentina in 1951. It is one of the only Antarctica bases that includes families with children in the settlement.
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Esperanza Station
Hope Bay
We arrived in Hope Bay around 11:30 AM. After anchoring, the expedition team launched the Zodiacs in the water and we commenced our tours according to our color group. The first group went off a little late, but they managed to get back on schedule by the time they called our group – Purple – at 3 PM.
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The Seabourn Quest in Hope Bay
Zodiac Tour
I started getting suited up about 15 minutes prior to our scheduled time so when they called our color I could proceed directly to the boot locker room behind The Club and change into our waterproof boots. Once we were wearing our boots we headed down to Deck 3 to board the Zodiacs. The weather was great, calm seas and no wind, so it was easy to get into the Zodiacs. We didn’t get wet at all on this outing. Getting wet is not something that will happen on every trip (unless you must make a wet landing like we did in New Island when in the Falklands).
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Seabourn staff check the security of your life preserver before you head to the Zodiacs
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Getting your boots out of the locker
Our Zodiac driver commented that we had nearly perfect conditions for our tour with calm winds and smooth seas. Hope Bay has over 125,000 pairs of Adelie Penguins. They were lining the shoreline and easily seen up and down the slopes. We spotted a few of them “sledding” on their bellies down the ice toward the water and we weren’t sure if they were doing this to save time or simply to have a good time.
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Adelie penguins
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Adelie Penguin in Hope Bay
As we motored down the coast, most of the time going dead slow, we spotted groups of penguins swimming alongside our Zodiac. They popped out of the water every few seconds and looked like small dolphins.
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A pair of penguins porpoising across the bay
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Adelie Penguin popping out of the water while swimming in Hope Bay
After 90 minutes we headed back to the ship and climbed back onboard. We used the elevators to get back to Deck 5. One of the elevators had the interior walls covered/protected and the buttons blocked off – except for Decks 3 and 5. Plastic duck foot prints were stuck to the floor to mark the path we followed back to the boot lockers.
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Unloading the Zodiac after the tour
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He is our track from our Zodiac Tour today using my Garmin 810 GPS. The Green is our staring point and the red is where we stopped. There is some “noise” around the start and finish since I turn on the GPS while inside the ship and its not as accurate when you do that, but I hate to forget to turn it on when I leave to I just turn in on when I leave my cabin,
Dinner tonight was in The Colonnade – the theme was Latin Night served buffet style with open seating.
They showed “March of the Penguins” in the Grand Salon tonight in lieu of a guest entertainer.
We will be in Dorian Bay, near Damoy Point tomorrow for our first landing on the continent!
I’ve been following your travels all over the world for a couple years now via your blog. This just might be one of my all-time favorite posts. You sure managed to make the reader feel like we were right there with you experiencing all those awesome vistas (and brutal chill!).
Wishing you Fair Winds and Following Seas….as you continue on yet another magic voyage.
Thanks Nicolas, appreciate the comment.
Pete
Thank you for sharing your journeys via an excellent blog. Your story is enhanced with thoughtful, good photography . I will continue to travel the world vicariously through your blogs, I feel part of your purple group.
Judy is talented, love her hat designs!
Enjoy the journey and the memories.
Thanks for following and the nice comments!
Pete